Restaurant review: Taillevent (Paris)

In keeping with our gastronomical march through Paris, we also dined at Taillevent, a 2 star Michelin restaurant. The atmosphere at Taillevent is very different than Guy Savoy. Whereas dining at Guy Savoy is like going to a show, Taillevent is a quieter, more intimate atmosphere. Dining at Taillevent is like dining at a friend’s house (as long as the friend is a superb chef and employed his own waitstaff, of course).

For appetizers, we had crab with remoulade sauce and dill; seasonal vegetables with pure sea salt and olive oil; duck foie gras with verjuice jelly and topped with gold leaf; and black truffle risotto. There wasn’t a clear winner here, although the black truffle risotto eaters were the most vocal in insisting that their appetizers were the best.

For the main course, we had sea bass served with leeks, champagne sauce, and osetra caviar; wild duck with spices and bigarade sauce; black truffle in pastry with périguex sauce; and filet of beef en feuilleté. Again, no clear winner here either, but those who ordered the duck thought their entrée was clearly superior to the others.

And for dessert, the bulk of the table ordered the chocolate soufflé. I was the outlier here and ordered the Saint-Honoré with Tahitian vanilla and salted butter caramel sauce. Your preference here all depends on whether you’re a chocolate dessert person or not.

This was my favorite restaurant in Paris. Where the rest of the family preferred Guy Savoy, I like the quiet intimacy of Taillevent. The food in both restaurants is first-class, and you can’t go wrong with either of them. It all depends on the atmosphere that you prefer (and the price that you’re willing to pay).

Taillevent is located at 15 Rue Lamennais, 75008 Paris (www.taillevent.com).

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